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When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary triumph.